Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Tea-producing area

June ,2022

From the Internet

城市生活千变万化，武夷山的制茶人却依然扎根山内，只为呈现出那一杯蕴含山骨之气的武夷岩茶。我们延续中国茶视角，探寻感悟，重新将“好茶”定义。

知悉茶事，品万象茶境

Know about tea and taste Vientiane tea

文 | 帮利茶业市场中心

责任编辑 | Vera

茶与武夷山脉：

Tea and Wuyi Mountains

一杯茶的美好滋味，在茶人与饮者之间，隔着无可替代的地理条件与神奇的制茶技艺。

The fragrant taste of a cup of tea is separated by irreplaceable geographical conditions and magical tea making skills between tea masters and tea drinkers.

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Benny in the tea room

June ,2022

Taken on the scene

武夷山又名虎夷山。据史传，唐尧时有彭祖与二子曰武曰夷，到该山东麓的崇安西南乡隐居，因当地洪水常泛滥成灾，彭武与彭夷两兄弟便开山凿石，挖河渠疏导洪水。当时人们为了纪念他们，就把他俩开挖河道时堆垒的小土石山称为“武夷山”。后来，雄峙赣闽边界的大山也统称为武夷山。

Wuyi Mountain is also known as Huyi mountain. According to historical legend, Peng Zu and his second son, Wu Yueyi, lived in seclusion in the southwest township of Chong'an at the eastern foot of the mountain in Tang Yao. Because local floods often flooded, Peng Wu and Peng Yi brothers dug mountains, rocks, and dug canals to divert floods. At that time, in order to commemorate them, people called the small earth and stone mountain built by them when they were excavating the river as "Wuyi Mountain". Later, the mountains that stand on the border between Jiangxi and Fujian were also collectively referred to as Wuyi Mountains.

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Benny passed on the way

June ,2022

Record casualy

在地理上，武夷山脉呈东北—西南走向，绵延与闽、浙、赣边界，长约500多公里，将闽北大部分地区天然地带阻隔开来。仅就福建来讲，山脉覆盖面积超过半个闽北，最南端在闽西武平县的梁野山结束。丘陵起伏，河谷盆地错落其间，在一定程度上将武夷山脉的地理进行分割。于是，武夷山地区在气候、地貌、山系上都自成单元，形成多个自成体系的自然与社会经济区域。

Geographically, Wuyi Mountains run from northeast to southwest, stretching over 500 kilometers along the borders of Fujian, Zhejiang and Jiangxi, blocking most natural areas in Northern Fujian. As far as Fujian is concerned, the mountains cover more than half of Northern Fujian, and the southernmost end is liangye mountain in Wuping County, Western Fujian. Rolling hills and scattered river valleys and basins divide the geography of Wuyi Mountains to a certain extent. As a result, Wuyi Mountain region has formed its own units in climate, landform and mountain system, forming a number of natural and social economic regions with their own systems.

Wuyi Mountains

June 27,,2022

From the Internet

整条山脉，就像一排高海拔的天然屏障，截留了东南海洋的温暖气流。加上山与水形成的有益互动，保障了物种的多样性与资源的丰富性，使其成为地理演变过程中许多动植物的“天然避难所”。而显著的气候垂直变化，形成了东南大陆面积最大、保存最完整的中亚热带森林生态系统，非常适于农作物的生长。武夷全山均系岩山，悬崖绝壁构成深坑巨谷，地形至为复杂。就植茶条件上而言，实可得种种理想环境。如是经数百年代不断垦殖与改良，遂使武夷成为一特殊茶区。

The whole mountain range, like a row of high-altitude natural barriers, intercepts the warm air flow of the southeast ocean. In addition, the beneficial interaction between mountains and water ensures the diversity of species and the richness of resources, making it a "natural refuge" for many animals and plants in the process of geographical evolution. The significant vertical climate change has formed the largest and best preserved subtropical forest ecosystem in the southeast continent, which is very suitable for the growth of crops. The whole Wuyi Mountain is a rocky mountain, with cliffs and cliffs forming deep pits and huge valleys, and the terrain is extremely complex. In terms of tea planting conditions, various ideal environments can be obtained. After hundreds of years of continuous cultivation and improvement, Wuyi became a special tea area.

环境虽决定了茶树鲜叶的好坏基础，不过最终的成茶还要经过制作工艺来展现。

Although the environment determines the basis for the quality of fresh leaves of tea plants, the final finished tea needs to be displayed through the production process.

在宋代之前，武夷茶在全国产区处于边缘；在宋代发展至巅峰的北苑贡茶区域，甚至连边缘都称不上。明末时期，崇安县令重振武夷茶，绿茶的炒清制法被引进，这是当时最先进的制茶技术。然而炒清绿茶制法无法充分转化武夷茶丰富的内含物质，制出的茶叶并不理想。武夷茶人便在求香的基础上发明了半发酵的制茶技艺，先进行发酵控制，而后炒清又焙干，用这种方法可以充分转化茶叶中的内含物质，使得茶汤清香甘活。而今声名远播的“武夷岩茶”除去基础制茶流程，最为重要的便是“炭焙”此类制茶技法。

Before the Song Dynasty, Wuyi tea was on the edge of the national production areas; The Beiyuan tribute tea area, which reached its peak in the Song Dynasty, is not even marginal. In the late Ming Dynasty, Chongan county magistrate revived Wuyi tea, and the stir frying method of green tea was introduced, which was the most advanced tea making technology at that time. However, the method of stir frying green tea can not fully transform the rich contents of Wuyi tea, and the tea produced is not ideal. Wuyi tea people invented the semi fermentation tea making technology on the basis of seeking fragrance. They first carried out fermentation control, then fried and baked. In this way, the substances contained in tea can be fully transformed to make the tea soup fragrant and sweet. Now, the most important tea making technology of "Wuyi rock tea", which is well-known, is "charcoal baking" in addition to the basic tea making process.

Star Village Tea Factory

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Charcoal baking workbench

June ,2022

Taken on the scene

炭焙，顾名思义，指利用上等好炭的余火持续焙茶。炭焙时，焙笼中的温度约在120摄氏度左右。一户茶农家里，沿用传统炭焙工艺的话，平均一天只能焙上几十斤的茶叶，只是我们相信，“文火慢炖”才有可能出好茶。

Charcoal baking, as the name suggests, refers to the continuous baking of tea by using the afterheat of superior charcoal. When baking with charcoal, the temperature in the baking cage is about 120 ℃. In a tea farmer's home, if the traditional charcoal baking process is followed, the average day can only bake dozens of kilograms of tea, but we believe that "slow stewing" can produce good tea.

Star Village Tea Factory

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Charcoal baking workbench

June ,2022

Taken on the scene

工艺的创新、口感的追求，越来越围绕这一个简单的目标而行：香。人们对于茶的评判，基本都是基于嗅觉和味觉，闻起来香，喝起来讲究有丰富度的香。于是育种思维除了提高产量和抗逆性外，培育出优质高香的品种，是重要的目标。武夷山地区有天然的优势，周边的四季兰、百合、桂花、杜鹃以及那些无名野花，四季里轮番绽放，空气中弥漫的花香被茶叶吸收，最终影响到茶叶的香型。这也越来越多的表现为人们对武夷山好茶的群体认知。

The innovation of technology and the pursuit of taste are increasingly centered on this simple goal: fragrance. People's evaluation of tea is basically based on smell and taste. It smells fragrant and tastes rich. Therefore, breeding thinking, in addition to improving yield and stress resistance, cultivating high-quality and fragrant varieties is an important goal. Wuyi Mountain area has natural advantages. The surrounding four seasons orchids, lilies, osmanthus, azalea and those nameless wild flowers bloom in turns in four seasons. The fragrance in the air is absorbed by tea, which ultimately affects the aroma of tea. This is also increasingly manifested in people's group cognition of Wuyi Mountain good tea.

而武夷茶得以“天产”驰名天下，不仅于此。茶叶品质之优异除原树品种良好之根本条件而外。天然环境之优越，于培植之能得法，采制之能合理，三者不可一缺。

Wuyi tea is not only famous for its "natural products". The excellent quality of tea is not only the basic condition for the good variety of original trees. The superiority of natural environment, the ability of cultivation and reasonable harvesting are indispensable.

Star Village Tea Factory

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

June ,2022

Taken on the scene

茶叶制作是一个复杂的过程。武夷山脉上的茶，品种繁多，叶与梗的大小、长短、薄厚、粗细、含水量等，都不统一。技艺精湛的制茶师傅深知“看天做青，看青做青”的真意。武夷制茶师傅做茶，面对一筐上好青茶，有如玉雕师傅面对一块绝世璞玉般。完美茶青要在自己手里上演完美落幕，技艺也将有了实现最大价值的舞台。含水量80%的鲜叶，制成含水量7%以下的毛茶，随叶内水分散失速度和程度的不同，引起叶内物质相应的理化变化，从而逐步形成茶叶的色、香、味、形不同的品质特征。

Tea making is a complicated process. There are many kinds of tea in Wuyi Mountains, and the size, length, thickness, crudeness or fineness and moisture content of leaves and stems are not unified. Skilled tea makers know the true meaning of "seeing the sky as green, seeing green as green". Wuyi tea making master makes tea, facing a basket of good green tea, is like a jade carving master facing a piece of peerless jade. Perfect tea green wants to perform a perfect ending in its own hands, and the skill will also have a stage to realize the maximum value. Fresh leaves with a water content of 80% are made into Mao tea with a water content of less than 7%. With the different speed and degree of water loss in the leaves, the corresponding physical and chemical changes of substances in the leaves are caused, so as to gradually form the quality characteristics of tea with different color, aroma, taste and shape.

Star Village Tea Factory

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

June ,2022

Record casualy

究竟何为好茶？

What is good tea?

苍山翠崖，蜿蜒绵延。我们怀揣一份对茶的热爱，穿过平原，越过山丘，在茶中“勃艮第”的中国古老的茶产区——武夷山脉下寻找答案。

Cangshan green cliff, winding and continuous. With the love for tea, we crossed the plains and hills to find the answer under the Wuyi Mountains, China's ancient tea producing area of "Burgundy" in tea.

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Benny Tea Industry Visit

June ,2022

On the way

我们对武夷山的向往来源于太多的历史记忆、文化想象和生活感受，如今大家品的茶形、茶色、茶味，也不再是单纯的感官评判。在探访了手工制茶厂、传承大师后，我们感触颇多。

Our longing for Wuyi Mountain comes from too much historical memory, cultural imagination and life experience. Now the shape, color and taste of tea we taste are no longer just sensory judgments. After visiting handmade tea factories and inheritance masters, we felt a lot,

走访途中我们发现：茶山生态优良，但人烟旱至。归根结底是由于全球茶叶供大于求，产能过剩；加之子女教育问题，茶农放弃农村，从而导致年轻劳动力丧失，农村老龄化加剧，目前茶农的平均年龄已超过50岁。这也使得传统工艺制茶中美丽的田园景色、生态条件、可持续的土壤，都无法在中国茶的生产价值体系中体现，同时制茶师傅面对好茶青的巧手匠心也将被埋藏在涓涓的文明长河中。

During the visit, we found that the ecology of tea mountain is excellent, but small population. In the final analysis, it is due to the global oversupply of tea and overcapacity; In addition to the problem of children's education, tea farmers give up the countryside, resulting in the loss of young labor force and the aggravation of rural aging. At present, the average age of tea farmers has exceeded 50 years old. This also makes the beautiful rural scenery, ecological conditions and sustainable soil in traditional tea making unable to be reflected in the production value system of Chinese tea. At the same time, the ingenuity of tea makers in dealing with good tea will also be buried in the trickle of civilization.

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Tea farmers pick tea

June ,2022

Narrative shooting

传统手工制茶的师傅是最能知道清早上山采青茶工的艰辛，知道一次难得的晴天对茶青的难得，明白一顿漫射光滋养的意义。于是，粗厚的手掌跃跃欲试的开始搓起来，摇青、静置、再摇青，大约循环数十次，少则五、六小时，多则数十小时有余，其间还需观茶叶情况，不得有半点马虎。而后，炒青、揉捻、干燥，直至天亮，茶初成。身处现场的我们对师傅的辛勤产生惊叹，更加折服于师傅的严谨。

The master of traditional hand-made tea is the one who can best know the hardships of picking green tea in the early morning, the difficulty of a rare sunny day for green tea, and the significance of a diffuse light nourishment. Therefore, the thick palm eagerly began to rub up, shaking green, standing, and then shaking green for about dozens of times, ranging from five or six hours to more than ten hours. During this period, we still need to watch the tea situation, and there must be no carelessness. Then, stir fry, roll and dry until dawn, and the tea is ready. We at the scene were amazed at the master's hard work and were more convinced by the master's preciseness.

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Tea-producing area

5 a.m.

June ,2022

Star Village Tea Factory

Wuyishan City,Fujian Province

Master is making tea

June ,2022

Taken on the scene

半盏清茶，观浮沉人生。在茶室静心而坐，散发在空气中的芳香分子藉由鼻腔吸收后，一阵清风拂过，师傅的一泡茶便已倒入杯中。浓郁奶香，馥郁花香，我们为丰富层次感的变化而震撼，实在幸而不负有心人。期间，师傅向我们娓娓道来了许多关于武夷山的历史文化，从他的眼神谈吐中，我们感受到师傅对茶更高的追求，体悟到智慧的启发，增长了眼界的拓展。所谓技艺的传承，便是如此通过制茶人的心智与能力来理解并发扬茶的本质。

Half a cup of tea, watching the ups and downs of life. Sit quietly in the tea room. After the aromatic molecules emitted in the air are absorbed by the nose, a breeze blows, and the master's tea has been poured into the cup. We are shocked by the change of the rich sense of hierarchy, which is rich in milk and flowers. It is really lucky to live up to those who have a true heart. During this period, the master told us a lot about the history and culture of Wuyi Mountain. From his eyes and conversation, we felt the master's higher pursuit of tea, realized the Enlightenment of wisdom, and expanded our horizons. The so-called inheritance of skills is to understand and carry forward the essence of tea through the mind and ability of tea makers.

Wuyi tea

Benny in the tea room

June ,2022

文化，是“茶韵”的底气。中国茶道注重道德意识，崇尚和谐的精神，节俭的作风，求真的精神尤为重要。真正的好茶若是回到农产品本身，能因技艺、情感、自然而打动人心的茶，必然是奢侈品。而有些土地，天生就让人兴奋。

Culture is the foundation of "tea charm". Chinese tea ceremony pays attention to moral consciousness, advocates the spirit of harmony, frugal style, and the spirit of truth-seeking is particularly important. If the real good tea comes back to the agricultural products themselves, the tea that can move people's hearts due to skills, emotions and nature must be a luxury. And some lands are naturally exciting.

制茶多年，帮利坚持在武夷山产区深耕，作为武夷岩茶重要的原料产区，数位制茶大师在此孕育、扎根。我们彼此同行，从心出发，倾注对茶的尊敬与渴望。从传统茶制作经验中创造出极其优质的餐饮用茶，正是帮利公司专业人员所从事的业务。

For many years, Benny has insisted on deep cultivation in Wuyi Mountain production area. As an important raw material production area of Wuyi rock tea, several tea masters have been bred and rooted here. We walk with each other and pour our respect and desire for tea from our hearts. It is the business of professionals of Benny to create extremely high-quality catering tea from the experience of traditional tea production.

茶语清香，借茶静心，一杯茶汤里蕴藏的是一份真挚的情感，希望茶者皆能在品茶赏茶的过程中慢下来，和文明对话，与历史并肩。

Tea has a delicate fragrance and borrow tea to meditate. A cup of tea liquid contains a sincere emotion. We hope tea drinkers can slow down in the process of tasting tea, have a dialogue with civilization and stand side by side with history.